Philadelphia: Argentinean Wine | Dine (Restaurants)

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Argentinean Wine
March 28, 2005

By: Christian Stapleton - cstapleton@aroundphilly.com

The Cheese:
Idiazabal is a firm, smoked sheep's milk cheese made from mountain herds of Navarra in the north of Spain. The rich, raw milk of these high-altitude living sheep makes for a spicy, earthy and simultaneously meaty flavor while the hardwood smoking process gives the cheese a herbaceous, balsamy bouquet. While most cold smoking leaves cheese with heavy-handed woodiness, Idiazabal remains subtly perfumed.

Recommended Wine Pairing:
Somontano is a promising new D.O. in Aragon that gives most of its designation to local grape varieties, some of which have been in the region since early Roman cultivation.

Bodega Pireneos S.A. makes a 100 percent Moristel red that is unique to the D.O. Smoky and redolent of tar aromas, it has all the brooding and elusive qualities of crianza Tempranillos with a backbone of blackberry and cinnamon. Its spice and old-vine earthiness pair nicely with the smokey nuances of Idiazabal.

What I'm Drinking:
I'm experimenting with some bottle-aged, Bordeaux style reds from Argentina. Over the next 10 years, Argentinean producers will continue to outdo themselves and demand higher prices per bottle.

I am currently enjoying Norton's 1995 Pravada, a French-oaked Cabernet, Merlot and Malbec blend. Still a bit acidic but could round itself out after a few more years in the bottle. Supple, cedary and fruit-forward in '05.