Sometimes a throwback isn't nearly as charming as you'd hope. Let's think about this for a second: Does anyone really want to hear about a New Kids on the Block reunion tour? Or the return of Travolta-esque polyester leisure suits?

I didn't think so.

And much in the same vein, a trip down culinary memory lane to the old-fashioned days of Mexican dining in this city isn't nearly as happy a trek as you'd hope. Not now, at least; not with newbies like Xochitl and old standbys like Tequila's serving fabulous regional Mexican cuisine that rivals any Italian or French restaurant in town.

But that's just what a recent meal at Cantina Los Caballitos was: a trip back to a time when Mexican food was synonymous with nachos that needed a kick to liven them up, mediocre food preparations and a tequila-lubed bar scene.

As far as the booze went, Cantina is the place to go. The bar was hopping on a recent Saturday night, packed full of people happily throwing back everything from beers to mixed drinks with joyous abandon. At my table that night we made quick work of our margarita and mojito pitchers, which were refreshing and pleasantly fruity.

Perhaps we should have ordered more of them, because the food left a whole lot to be desired.

The nachos appetizer, while appropriately messy (who wants prim-and-proper nachos?), were no different from a thousand other versions I've had before. Glopped full of black beans, pickled jalapenos, pico de gallo, roasted corn, crema and melted cheese, the mix of toppings were oddly sweet and unevenly added to the nachos themselves.

The ensalada mixta was a step in the right direction, though, and the more than generous preparation of romaine, avocado, almonds, jicama and radishes (an interesting textural juxtaposition), slivers of orange and a piquin chile vinaigrette proved to be a fabulous pairing partner for my margarita.

Cabrito, or goat, was also very good, and the bold, rich aromas of the garlic and mustard seed gave it a surprisingly heady note that somehow tamed the goat meat itself. This dish, in fact, was the unequivocal highlight of the meal and demonstrated just how nuanced Mexican food can-and should-be.

Unfortunately, the carne asada proved the opposite: Tough to the point of chewy and frustratingly one-dimensional, this grilled skirt steak was exactly the kind of dish that most people associate with Mexican food in the United States. After two bites, I actually grew slightly depressed.

From the higher-end destinations I mentioned earlier to authentic standbys like Taqueria La Veracruzana and El Jarocho, this town seems to be in the very early stages of a flirtation with authentic Mexican cuisine. It's an affair worth having, and I hope it blossoms into a full-fledged relationship.

For the time being, however, restaurants like Cantina Los Caballitos are still packing them in, though they're increasingly looking like throwbacks in an age of more nuanced Mexican cooking. But as long as you go there with realistic expectations, a fully functioning liver and a jones for some grease with your booze, you'll be just fine.

You'll be just fine.

Cantina Los Caballitos, 1651 E. Passyunk Ave., 215.755.3550