I've worked in Conshohocken long enough to know that in order for an independent restaurant to succeed as a nighttime dining destination, it needs to be open during daylight hours as well. Yes, serving lunch is advisable, as is doing so in under an hour - and better yet - under ten bucks, too. We office-worker drones will never stand for being gauged.
Thus, it was no surprise that the former occupant of 119 Fayette Street in "Conshy" folded their tents after only a couple years. Sure they had the right idea: talented Le Bec-Fin alum brings spark and substance to his menu at this small jewel box BYOB. Sadly, dinners alone (or $15-$20 lunches when they did make the attempt) worked to do them in but good.
Fast-forward to today, and Blackfish, a highly touted BYOB with similar components as its predecessor, occupies the space.
This time, the Le Bec-Fin alum is Charles "Chip" Roman, an under-30-year-old culinary wunderkind with a flair for New American fare that transcends standard without becoming alchemy. Indeed, in his first half year on location, Roman has created the buzz-worthy destination he's been dreaming of - and yes, Blackfish is also open for (affordable) lunches as well.
One recent visit there had me in by noon/out before one, a simple repast of frothy vegetable root bisque and a summer-fresh pear and gorgonzola salad that made me forget about those howling winter winds outside.
Dinner is the thing though; the stylish restaurant packs them in most every night for a chance to experience gastronomic techniques from Roman (who was also a chef at the renowned Vetri), a showcase for great foods paired with diners' own wines and other victuals.
Suddenly, between boffo ratings - The Philadelphia Inquirer's critic Craig Laban recently bestowed a 3-Bell review (out of 4) - and a notable daytime departure from the likes of those ale house/fried-fish joints along the same block, it is as if a new level of cuisine has finally come to, or at least, is finally thriving along this section of Fayette Street.
The winter menu brings toothsome risotto with tender chestnuts in pureed currents as an opener, and a delicate skate wing on romaine with lemon broth as a worthy main course.
The fork-tender hanger steak and rich-rubbed lamb loin are also notable choices, and a small offering of desserts like rich crème brulee that beg to be lingered over.
I like what Roman has done to the décor. Where the space had been dim and choppy before, the chef/owner has lightened up the color scheme, making the focal point in the front room the bookshelf nearly overflowing with cookbook tomes. In back, there is another room that's no less alit, yet is more private.
If it's just you and one other, consider asking for the two-top by the front window at Blackfish. I also suggest making reservations (Wednesday-Saturday nights) well in advance as that added reviewer publicity has bolstered bookings considerably. Better yet, try it early in the week and even for lunch.
There's street parking and a nearby public lot. I tend to head east on Second Avenue and try to find a spot back in the neighborhood. It's no more of a walk and there are always plenty of spaces to be found.
Chip Roman is doing it right at his Blackfish, both at dinners and at lunchtime. I guess one man's loss is another man's gain in Conshohocken.
Lunch, Mon. - Fri., 11:30am - 2:30pm; Dinner, Mon. - Thurs., 5pm - 10pm; Fri., 5pm - 11pm; Sat., 5:30pm - 11pm, Blackfish, 119 Fayette St., Conshohocken, PA, 610.397.0888; www.blackfishrestaurant.com
