Vouvray

The Cheese:
Sainte-Maure, also known as Sainte-Maure de Touraine, is made in the Touraine region of the Loire Valley in France from 100 percent raw goat’s milk, although some but few exports are made with pasteurized milk. It is handmade in the shape of a small log and dusted with a layer of ash.

Some producers allow the cheese to develop its own fuzzy, naturally ripened rind. In authentic versions, you will always see a thin, long piece of straw or wood that runs directly through the cheese on its horizontal axis. This allows for proper aging through the center and makes it easier to handle.

At its younger stages, it has a light buttery and nutty flavor. As it matures, it becomes drier and slightly salty with a musty aftertaste. I think it shows itself off best when broiled and served after dinner with a sweet wine. The cheese was named after the Saint Maure, Maurus of Subiaco, at around 6 A.D., who was one of Saint Benedict’s students at Monte Cassino and became his trusted companion. Because he was the patron saint of charcoal burners and because of his name, Saint Maure is often depicted in paintings as a black man although he was white. Oddly, most Sainte-Maure cheese forms are almost always coated in black ash.

Recommended Wine Pairing:
Domaine Gaston Huet 2002 Vouvray (Le Haut-Lieu)
One of the classic wine and cheese pairings, I feel, is that of Saint-Maure and Vouvray. Vouvray is right up there with Sancerre as two of the Loire Valley’s best-known appelations.

Wines from this region are always made from 100 percent Chenin Blanc grapes, which is why Vouvray only produces white wines. The Chenin Blanc grape tends to produce wines of higher acidity levels due to the Loire’s chalk and limestone-rich soil. In Vouvray you will see bright sparkling wines, bone-dry wines, off sweet wines and sweet wines that always pair nicely with tangy foods like Thai and Chinese.

With a younger Saint-Maure I recommend Huet 2002 Vouvray with has the typical chalky streaks of a good Loire Valley white and the bright and crisp citrus qualities that go so well with goat cheese. This wine still has enough body to nicely compliment the richness of the Saint-Maure.

What I’m Sipping Now:
Feeling compelled to stay within state boundaries, I decided to go the new outlet store on Delaware Avenue and buy wine under $15 for the heck of it. One that caught my eye was a Chilean Chardonnay 2003 Marques de Casa Concha, by Concha y Toro. I have to say the oak aging came through and I am sure it must have spent at least some considerable time in new French oak barrels. For the price ($14.99) it had enough balance between the smoky notes and the slight creaminess to round it off nicely.