The ‘Burbs: 333 Belrose

I truly believe that a large percentage of those who keenly follow the reviews of restaurant critics enjoy reading the bad stuff. In journalism, whether in newsprint or online, a harsh drubbing of a dining establishment is akin to juicy tabloid gossip; wouldn’t most folks rather read that Lindsay Lohan is in rehab (again) instead of a glowing review about her latest movie? People love to peruse the trash talk.

I know this from the responses I get when pointing out those dining “opportunities” about certain eating establishments; the harder I hit, the more my own readers seem to like it. 

I’ll gently let you naysayer’s down then with this optimistic summation of 333 Belrose.

Since my first visit there in 1999 and on through the present, I haven’t had a bad meal at Belrose and what’s more, the commentary I receive from my own 9-to-5 clientele has been uniformly positive. Sure, there’s the ever-so-often clunker that’s sent back to the kitchen, or the server who may have missed stating a special during the pre-meal recitation, but that’s called being human.

It’s hard to fault anything prepared by executive chef/co-owner Carlo deMarco, who for years has worked his diminutive tail off, trying to make Belrose a consistent New American option within the fussy culinary corridor along this part of the Main Line. For Carlo & Co—so far, so very good.

I remember first meeting chef deMarco while he was at Bridget Foy’s on South Street and being very impressed by the quality of his culinary production. Since departing I’ve noted (this is for you bashers), Foy’s simply hasn’t attained the same consistency in its own reviews and accolades. A brief foray at a hard-to-get-to West Conshohocken spot followed, (remember the West Side Grill? No?) then, opportunity knocked for deMarco at the Radnor site that had seen its own share of restaurants come (The Greenhouse) and go (Carolina’s). Eight years running and things are mostly rosy at Belrose.

The restaurant is comfortable and unpretentious. The dining rooms, the 30-seat private Garden Room and the 18-seat semi-private Pear Room, are all splashed with vibrant Tony LaSalle original paintings, each lending floral dynamics to the scene. Blonde woods abound in the restaurant and within the bar; a watering hole which offers one of the best happy hours in the land and includes a half-price bar menu Mondays through Wednesdays—large portions of items like pinot grigio-steamed mussels or bacon and blue cheese sliders—fare that, I believe, translates into some of the best meal deals to be found this side of the rail line. Another feature at 333 is the seasonal outdoor patio, flag stoned and umbrella-covered fun from spring through fall.

I’ve enjoyed countless meals here and find deMarco’s produce exquisitely fresh, and his fish, both seafood and shellfish, of fine quality. An example of his dinner entrees include line-caught grouper fillet with Calico Bay scallops ($28), wood grilled NY strip steak with a bourbon-rock shrimp pan sauce ($31), and his should-be-famous Belrose Java pork tenderloin for $26.

Being a fan of both calamari and crab cakes, I was asked to gauge each during a recent lunch and found them to be right up there with the best around; the skillful addition of green pumpkinseed aioli to those crispy salt and pepper calamari ringlets ($10) and warm beluga lentils/Creole mustard cream accompanying the pan blackened crab ($17), fine enhancements indeed.

Oh, desserts (cappuccino torte with Kahlua crème Anglaise and also, flourless chocolate cake with raspberry sauce, $6 each), well, they rocked. Service too was very consistent.

Okay, maybe I do have a qualm or two about 333 Belrose, but they have nothing to do with quality control issues; actually, they’re logistical in nature. The first is the restaurant’s location. Belrose Lane can be a bit daunting to find if you’re not familiar with Radnor, so I suggest pulling up directions or bringing the GPS prior to visiting. Once there, parking can be a real bear if the place is crowded. There’s just a single lot onsite; not a very large one, and if you can’t find a spot, well, you may have to linger till someone pulls out. But these are observations and not complaints. If you want mean-spirited smarm and pithiness, please go elsewhere. I hear that the reviewer at one of the freebie papers is about to eviscerate another restaurateur again—another fine read.

333 Belrose

**Ken Alan is a corporate concierge and a hospitality writer for several regional publications.