Thom Cardwell
: How do you create a “culture” for a restaurant?Ellen Yin: I can’t overemphasize the importance of the staff, all of them, but the front-of-the- house people are crucial. They interact with the public, the diners, and they play such a critical role in the success of a restaurant. They have to comprehend and project a clear vision of the new American bistro. They must become believers in our philosophy. Ultimately, they really have to exude that vision to the diners. I’m always involved in the ever-evolving, moving target, vision for the restaurant. I have to depend upon my staff because I simply can’t carry it out by myself.
TC: Being brought up in an ethnically-defined, family environment, (in your case, Chinese-American) what does it take to broaden your food horizons?
EY: It was definitely difficult being first-generation American. While we ate good food as children and teenagers, we wanted to eat TV dinners, pizza, junk food. We wanted to become assimilated into the American way of eating that would lead us to the classic American way of life. Once I began working in restaurants, I was able to move away from the traditional Chinese dishes that my mother served. I discovered ethnic cuisines in restaurants, French and Thai, among others. As a graduate student I began to really enjoy eating out, always seeking something unusual to try.
TC: What motivated you to open Fork, etc.?
EY: Probably, somewhat out of being bored, having the feeling that I’d been a little constrained, and there was definitely some ego motivation in the mix. I was thinking about some new challenges, and then the rental space next door to Fork became available. It then became inevitable. I have to admit that, three years later, it’s my greatest challenge. Fork, etc., is all about prepared foods, everything has to be made in advance. It’s totally a learning curve for me to understand. The economics are entirely different; the traditional cost structure for a restaurant doesn’t apply to this venture. Staffing is different, even customer response.
TC: In the process of reinventing the restaurant, what have you learned over the years?
EY: Almost everything can be copied. You can be inspired by everyone. For example, our annual participation in events like the Book and The Cook actually inspired us to develop The Chef’s Table at Fork and other special events, of all kinds, really, and throughout the year. Philadelphia foodies have become a hard lot. You have to work just to get their attention and present a different approach. I’m always asking myself–how do you make your dining experience unique?
TC: As a successful business woman, is owning and operating a restaurant a lot of “trial and error”?
EY: Of course, you know, getting a Masters in Business Administration at Wharton just doesn’t give you that kind of background, that kind of education. However, I was taught to be a good generalist. But sometimes I have to rely upon others.
TC: How do women fit into this restaurant and food service industry?
EY: We’re not discriminated against but the work ethic is difficult. Because of the demands— the long and sometimes impossible hours, having to work on weekends and even holidays— the industry isn’t right for many women. There aren’t enough women as line chefs, sous chefs, and chefs. They’re just not there. I’m married to my business. It’s like the restaurant is my house and the people, the diners, are guests in my house.
TC: Why did you want to write a cookbook?
EY: After an entire decade, there are many stories, many experiences, many challenges, many things to share with readers. The writing of the book didn’t work out the way I anticipated. I didn’t know what direction to take my story, my history. I thought about calling the book, “Fork in the Road.” But that didn’t seem to be about me, but, in another way, it is about me. When the title “Forklore” was suggested, the book was to focus upon essays and tales. My job was to define what an American bistro is all about. In choosing recipes from a decade of menus, I had to select dishes that were memorable, so they’re included in the book. Sometimes, other recipes seem to dictate the telling of the story, so they’re included. In the end, I have 100 recipes in “Forklore.”
AroundPhilly Staff
