No matter where my parents go to eat along the Main Line, they always bump into so-and-so. After a Saturday night out, they’ll enthusiastically call me the next morning – “You’ll never guess who we ran into last night!”
It’s no small irony then that I felt very much like “Elaine and Stan’s boy” on a recent weekend night out with my wife, enjoying a meal with another couple at bistro M, the new (since September) Berwyn BYOB that shares space with Murray’s Main Line Deli. Indeed, it became an evening of bumping into our own familiar so-and-so’s, made even more enjoyable by this newcomers’ fine fare and festive ambience.
Murray’s of course is also the name of the legendary Bala Cynwyd deli that has operated successfully along Montgomery Avenue for decades. This western edition of Murray’s is a close relative, with owner Bob Teti, whose father and brothers run the Bala original, and his wife, Gayle, being the proprietors of this newer, more upscale version.
Well, not so new. A few years ago, the Teti’s tried to capitalize on the Murray’s name by bringing deli fare – till now fairly nonexistent in West Chester – to that restaurant-rich borough.
Bob concedes today that his first venture, inside a red-bricked warren of rooms that looked more chop house than brisket house, is better suited for what it is today – Pietro’s Prime, a fairly upscale steak place.
When the couple began moving into this current Berwyn locale in what used to be a former ice house, they once again broke out the schmaltz -and-shmear formula that has made the Murray’s name so locally famous, turning one section into a modern eat-in/catering deli.
The Teti’s also recognized that Berwyn is the perfect location for a solid and creative BYOB restaurant. (Meridith’s Café just up the road has certainly proven this foodie fact.)
Their bistro M is just that: fresh and upscale with a global menu that has a pointed commitment toward using high-quality ingredients. Executive chef Joseph Dougherty (from the well-respected Hotel DuPont) incorporates organic, hormone-free, free-range and local farm ingredients into his inspiring dinner menu.
Situated immediately off to the right when entering the surprisingly chic deli, the bistro has a city-cool look and vibe, more Northern Liberties than Main Line. High ceilings retain an industrial-beamed ambience, yet lend a stylish air to everything down below. Red-hued brick walls lined with soft mocha banquets give warmth to the space, while fiery-warm rectangular prints and soft lighting contributes to the sophisticated feel of the bistro. The front area has a partial view of the open kitchen and the back one is usually fairly abuzz with patrons.
We walked in recently and – “Hey! There’s Brian and his wife!” – an old business acquaintance of mine. “Look!” Our dining partners gave a wave to some folks they know, too.
Small plate starters made an auspicious opening. Pickled beet carpaccio with Chevre goat cheese was flavorful and plucky, served over baby organic greens and citrus-y Clementine vinaigrette. Meanwhile, my Chef’s risotto with saffron and pine nuts was a textural entity, a bowl budding with flavors, yet missing some much-needed grated cheese such as a good Reggiano to give it sharp balance. Bob later agreed with my assessment and Chef Dougherty’s risotto has since changed on the menu.
Big plates were excellent. The menu price-topper, my wife’s flat iron steak frites with balsamic demi glace for $30, remained true to form with the exception of those addictive Parmesan and truffle fries. I had something very staid – sage and lemon organic chicken – as untraditional an order as I’ll get since I rarely try simple poultry dishes when I dine out. But I had my reasons.
The on-the-bone leg and breast scented with sage jus and sided by roasted exotic mushrooms and Vidalia onion marmalade was flavorful, as expected. If you share a kitchen with a deli, I rationalized, than your chicken had better be fresh.
Among desserts, we split a yummy Chai spiced crème brulee and a puckery lemon cream and blueberry trifle, and shared some conversation time together. Looking back, I now recall us staying seated at least an hour after we had finished, enjoying company in a room that seems created for conversation.
Admittedly, all that chatter can get a bit echo-y on busier nights, though Gayle assures she is looking into noise deadeners for those lofty beams above.
One of bistro M’s biggest plus’s is that it has its own parking garage on site, a real rarity around these parts and a far cry from the pray-for-luck situations that bring down other nearby dining establishments.
Finally, we made our way toward the door and – “It’s Denise and Bart! And there’s Anne and Jim! Hey guys…!”
My wife and I sure had our fair share of so-and-so seeing at bistro M. It made us feel pretty special running into all those we happen to know. A very Elaine and Stan-like evening for us both.
AroundPhilly Staff
