Tap dance | Over the summer, a handsome new saloon swaggered into a former nuisance bar in a largely unhipsterfied nook of South Philly. The owners of Taproom on 19th also own the Green Room up in Fairmount and they’ve renovated the spot with a polished granite bar, pool table and five flat-screens framed in dark wood. Round these parts, the streets run thick with Sunday gravy and cannoli cream, so the gastropub menu comes as a welcome change of pace. Ross Essner, who just closed Django, is in the kitchen, turning out grilled ears of Jersey corn with truffle butter, giant filet mignon sandwiches and life-changing Chesapeake fries topped with crabmeat and Vermont cheddar—all for under $15. The beer list is boring, but they pour Yards Philly Pale Ale, Magic Hat #9 and Hoegaarden, which I can get by on just fine. The bartender reported beer requests are welcome for budding regulars. Here’s mine: Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA. Pretty please.
Duck, duck, risotto? | Joe’s Peking Duck (Original Since 1984) might be a helluva mouthful, but not compared to the just released encyclopedia of a menu. Slated to open September 28 at 108 Chestnut, chef/owner/Chinatown ambassador Joseph Poon has pieced together a bill of fare that, frankly, frightens me. Alongside the wok-fried noodle bowls, Indonesian chicken curry, five-spice-rubbed stuffed calamari and sushi you’ll find paella, risotto, nachos and tortilla sandwiches. Scary—and just in time for Halloween.
Flying to Coop’s | Really, I can’t remember the last time I was in Manayunk (partly because I was drunk), but since the opening of Cooper’s Brick Oven Wine Bar I’ve got a new pressing reason to revisit the charming river town. A commenter on the Zagat page laughably cautions, “Osteria watch out” and says Cooper’s has a “cool ‘New York’ type of vibe.” Anybody who uses the term ‘New York vibe’ with unnecessary quotations is not qualified to make judgments in coolness. However, I’m willing to bet the owners of Jake’s have another ‘yunk success on their hands. On the menu, small plates—venison meatballs, Thai chili shrimp—mingle with cheeses and brick-oven pizzas topped with everything from rock shrimp to short ribs to ham and egg. Pizza for breakfast? I can dig it.
No smoke in the Champagne room | In case you care, nobody was injured at the one-alarm fire that broke out on September 3 at Old City’s Swanky Bubbles. Probably because nobody’s gone there since the year 2000.
Foster’s, Australian for fly kitchen | There are plenty of reasons to crush Foster’s Urban Homeware, but the most compelling is definitely the make-you-jealous demonstration kitchen where local chefs hold one-night engagements. On the sked: Indian with Paul Sammy of Café Spice (September 27) and Jose “The Hombre” Garces, pictured left, (October 11) doing Distrito stuff and signing copies of his new cookbook, Latin Evolution. Keep your eyes peeled for Vetri on November 8.
Havana nights | If the last time you had a daiquiri was at TGI Friday’s or on vacation in Cancun, you need to (A) consider what your cocktail says about you and (B) get over to Rum Bar, which starts Save the Daiquiri Wednesdays tonight. Rum Bar does the daiquiri justice with white rum, lime, sugar and ice. Never frozen. Expect a few fresh-fruit variations on the Hemingway classic, as well as my favorite with Tommy Bahama, Luxardo Maraschino Liqueur, grapefruit juice, grapefruit bitters and simple syrup. The drinks will be half-price from happy hour ’till close.
Crudo dude | Pippo Lamberti, chef at Positano Coast, is hosting a crudo wine dinner tomorrow night. Expect his heavenly Italian sashimi—big-eye tuna with micro-arugula, Opaka pink snapper with baby tomatoes and lemon oil, marlin with radish and citrus cream—to star in the $55 feast. Wine pairings an additional $25.
A News Bouche: Taproom on 19th
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