*Ken Alan is away this week enjoying some time off (or, at the very least, is away from his desk) so we’re re-running one of our favorites for all the takeout-loving sports fans out there.
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The region’s simplest culinary treasures – hamburgers, hot dogs, steak sandwiches and hoagies, otherwise known as “the good stuff” – can be found on nearly every block in Philly. In the ‘burbs, it’s a lot harder to come by – or so it seems. You just have to know where to look.
This brief list of joints, storefronts and roadside stands is not the end-all; every townie has their favorite place. But I’m as homegrown-a-local as the next guy, one who has navigated tens of thousands of miles just in this region alone, all to find the perfect food on a roll. Here are a few taste-tested recommendations:
BURGERS
If only Charlie’s Hamburgers (Academy Ave. at Rt. 420 in Folsom) had a nickel for every time somebody placed an order for five burgers loaded and a black and white milkshake.
Oh, that’s right. They’ve made about a gizzilion nickels thanks to this request. Today, as it has been for generations, Charlie’s is the No. 1 burger shack in Delaware County.
Their hamburgers are surprisingly slight; the meat is a slim yet satisfying rectangle of fresh ground beef on a pillowy bun. “Like junk food tapas” my buddy Bill surmises before ordering five loaded of his own with ketchup, mustard, relish, but no fried onions.”
He’ll easily take all five down, as have so many others at Charlie’s. Some places have bigger burgers, but for pure enjoyment, their grilled ones are just about the best.
Zac’s in nearby Crum Lynn is a contender, his own fried-and-true version being actually quite similar to Charlie’s in lightness and taste.
The humorously named Cheeburger Cheeburger (it’s a catch-phrase from an old Saturday Night Live skit) in Frazer gets its own blend of character partly from its theme – a retro ‘50’s malt shop environ, and also, from those big, bold and juicy burgers they serve.These are the very antithesis of Charlie’s burgers. Cheeburger Cheeburger is a chain restaurant, with product size being their main factor. But with girth comes a good burger. Just don’t be tempted by that hefty 20-ouncer they sell. Is trying to get your photo on their “Wall of Fame” worth the heartburn of eating a whole one?
I also give props to Conshy’s Great American Pub. Char-cooked and perfectly juicy – it’s fun watching the weekday business guys waddle out after a burger-ful lunch there.
HOT DOGS
If Charlie’s is the Burger Mecca of the ‘burbs, then Jimmy John’s Pipin’ Hot (1507 Wilmington Pike), in West Chester, must be its wiener-sized alter ego.
Since the 1940’s, this roadside stand has been the place for plump dogs; the frankfurters are tubular meat marvels, their skins are thick and crackling to the bite, with soft buns that are not quite hot dog rolls and not exactly a sandwich roll, either.
What also makes Jimmy John’s so special is all the way-cool toy trains that chug through the shop. People pilgrimage from all over to enjoy those tasty dogs while playing rail man.
Other great stopovers for hot dogs in this area include Johnnie’s Dog House in Wayne, and a favorite of mine, Chuck’s Hot Dog House at 124 E. Fourth Street in Bridgeport. Two of Chuck’s with mustard and relish, washed down with a Coke and you’re living large.
CHEESESTEAKS
From the kitchen, the clack-clack-CLACK of the spatula sounds staccato as the grill man chops away at chipped steak. For nearly three decades, one of the few places to find a decent steak sandwich in the ‘burbs has been at the Pepper Mill (813 N. Chester Road) just outside of West Chester.
Far from gloppy, theirs is probably the neatest steak sandwich I’ve ever eaten: perfectly diced bits of nearly greaseless meat are accompanied by cooked-sweet onions, all fitting perfectly into a fresh roll from Conshohocken Bakery. The only caveat about the PM’s steak sandwich is it’s too tenderly made; no grease means it won’t stay as moist overnight for next-day leftovers.
Banish such dry thoughts if you’re dining at Joey’s Famous Philly, which is west out of Phoenixville. At Joey’s, huge coarsely chopped chunks of top round are loaded onto those pliant Amoroso rolls, making his one of the most South Philly-authentic steaks this side of the expressway.I’d be remiss if I didn’t mention one other noteworthy steak crafter in the ‘burbs. Ask where to find a great cheesesteak in lower Delaware County and I’ll wager you’ll hear the locals cheer for La Spada’s (1002 MacDade Blvd.) in Folsom. Everyone from that area has always loved this long-running shop, serving a truly great sandwich.
HOAGIES
Philly is hoagie country plain and simple. If you’re from here and have ever said “Yo!” or “Youz guys” then you know how seriously we take our sammiches.
The hoagies at Clifton Deli (22 S. Springfield Rd.,Clifton Heights) are an Amoroso-encased torpedo of quality Boar’s Head meats and cheeses, and — ever-so-important — the crispest lettuce
Don’t let the name Pasta Via (824 Fayette Street) fool you. This Conshohocken six-seater/take-out spot makes a feisty hoagie (great pizza, too). And I’ve personally been in a lunch room full of starved middle managers after a meeting once and saw first-hand how they clawed over and coveted the product from Planet Hoagie in Media (30 W. State St.)
But for me, there’s one to rule them all: A Cut Above Deli in Newtown Square. Premium meats, top-quality cheeses, and a liberal splash of oil are folded within the earthy, outer-crispness of Sarcone’s bread, direct from South Philly. If you’re hungry for one, then buy three and cherish the leftovers.Photo courtesy of What’s Up Magazine
AroundPhilly Staff
