Review: Argan

So here it is, Item Number One on my to-do list for 2009: I will eat fewer tuna-salad sandwiches for lunch.

 

Don’t scoff: This will not be easy. For years, my go-to lunch, enjoyed no fewer than three days a week, has consisted of a can of solid or chunk white tuna in water with an artery-clogging overabundance of mayo and a dollop of pickle relish, all of it mixed, spread on toasted whole-wheat bread, and topped with a refrigerator-cold slice of Cooper sharp cheese. A side of chips and a single carrot, cut into thumb-thick matchsticks, finishes it all off.

 

It’s neither sophisticated nor does my breath any favors. And my mercury levels, I’m sure of it, are high enough to power the world’s largest thermometer for decades. Plus, I’m getting kind of sick of it: Unlike certain species of seal or walrus, man cannot live on fish alone…especially the industrially packaged and spreadable kind.

 

Which is where Argan comes in. This new Moroccan sandwich spot, a few steps down from the sidewalk next to Bonte on 17^th Street, is the latest entry into the ever-expanding category of casual eatery that caters to the more exotic whims of the local clientele. And, like so many other spots lately, it wears its pedigree lightly: Its food is Moroccan in certain key respects, but not all of them, which would seem to broaden its potential base of customers.

 

The Moroccan highlights are noteworthy. Humbly touted Moroccan flatbread is so much more than it ever usually is. This incarnation is, essentially, a fluffy-light anti-pita, all whole-wheat toothy textures and a center as ethereal as that of a truly great croissant, minus the butteriness. It is used as both the base of Argan’s sandwiches as well as scoops for the various sides on offer.

 

As far as the sides go, they were among the highlights. Baba ghannouj had the texture of moist silk and enough of a soft smokiness to set the eggplant’s natural sweetness off well. Shakshuka, a tomato-and-pepper dish that’s more familiarly served with eggs (the thoroughly addictive Café Ole on Third Street between Arch and Race does a great job), was here rendered as a sort-of Middle Eastern version of the Italian staple caponata. Scooped up with that miraculous flatbread, it was a standout: The prickle of spice-heat and the vegetal sweetness of the tomatoes and peppers danced seamlessly together.

 

Sandwiches, while very good, could still use a bit of fine-tuning, though not as a result of the components themselves. The slices of moist roasted chicken, turmeric-yellow and subtly aromatic, were faultless. Links of merguez, the perfumed and spicy Moroccan sausages, showed a softer texture than I’m accustomed to, and that worked exceptionally well too, especially considering the delicacy of the bread encasing them.

 

But the toppings, while invariably fresh—bright zucchini and carrots, soft and well-seasoned potatoes, baby spinach or mixed greens—weren’t quite enough to carry the flavors that the meats required. Some kind of wet ingredient was needed for variety and a bit more flavor. A side of harissa helped, the pepper puree bringing so many of the components together, but even a generous drizzle of fruity or spicy olive oil would have worked wonders.

 

Still, Argan is fairly new, and some tweaking is bound to happen. As it stands right now, it’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood and should only get better—affordable, low-key, the friendly counter service and the sunset-orange or roasted-pepper-colored walls making for a pleasant spot to enjoy a quick meal. Plus, it’s a heck of a lot more interesting than tuna salad, and, in all likelihood, a lot healthier. Resolving to eat more like this seems like a smart way to start off the New Year.