When I heard Dettera’s cuisine was “progressive American,” I was stumped. I pictured vegan hotdogs and insurance companies. A quick Urbandictionary.com search revealed nothing about this food-industry jargon, instead redirecting me to a definition of American Apparel, which is a far cry from progressive. Rather than making my search history more incriminating, I left it up to my meal at Dettera to define the term.
Mind you, trying Dettera’s “progressive American” cuisine won’t come cheap. Entrées range from $24 to $45 (for a rack of prime Colorado lamb), with pizzas from $11 to $16. Yes, this is uncharacteristically pricey for Ambler, but it is most definitely worth your firstborn. You’ll love the building’s interior: the two-story former shop is open and contemporary, managing to accommodate a ton of guests without congestion. For what seemed like a slow night in Ambler, the place was bustling.For dinner, rather than venturing into the realm of pastas or meat entrées, I stuck with what I know best: pizza. The six options are all over the map, from pepper jack cheese and salami to asparagus with garlic and ricotta. I opted for the Crabby Tom, a $16 beast with jumbo crab, mascarpone cream, lemon and scallions. The flatbread pizza was massive, and you could likely split its six pieces with your date. Paired with two edamame side salads, your bill would total $26 and you wouldn’t leave hungry.
The pie was covered in hefty lumps of crab meat, making it well worth the $16. Chef Tom Groff also surprises by adding roasted red peppers to the mix, plus a hint of lemon. I learned that the pizza is named after the chef; it’s his favorite creation. Although I was in no shape for dessert after plowing through five pieces, green tea crème brulee wouldn’t take “no” for an answer. Yes, the Crabby Tom was good, but this dessert was divine. It’s garnished with a sliced strawberry (mix it in), and crusted in honey. Do yourself a favor and try it; it won’t disappoint. Aside from their standard menu, Dettera has “special menu additions.” On any given day, they may add a grilled hirimasa entrée or a sweet Maine shrimp cocktail appetizer with tequila lime salsa and organic avocado. Wine by the glass ranges from $6 to $22, with “super premium special wine” offering 1.5-, 3- and 6-ounce pours of very pricey wine for significantly less.
You may not leave Dettera with a clear definition of “progressive American” cuisine (if you do, I highly encourage you to enter it in Urbandictionary.com), but you’ll get a fabulous meal for a reasonable price. Don’t be fooled by its Ambler location; Dettera would feel at home in Center City, sans suburb wait times.
Dettera, 129 E. Butler Ave., Ambler, www.dettera.com, 215.643.0111
Max Kaplan
