Avril: Reviewed

Attention, future restaurateurs: stop flocking to Center City. The rent is high, the patrons are inexplicably unimpressed and the competition is, well, untouchable. The answer comes in the form of a little town called Bala Cynwyd (otherwise known as the "City Avenue" exit on 76, or if you’re eastbound, the spot where traffic starts to get really obnoxious).

It’s the answer to every corporation’s problem with those suburb-to-city (or vice versa) commuters who won’t make the drive into (or completely out of) Philadelphia. But more importantly, it’s where hordes of suit-wearing, briefcase-rolling adults fly through the corporate doors everyday, without fail, at 5pm, looking for sweet relief from their fluorescent-lit existence.

Meet Avril. The Bala Cynwyd BYOB where Havertown-born chef, Christian Gatti (White Dog, City Tavern), brings his French-inspired and often pastry-infused dishes to a little spot on Bala Avenue.

Already a few minutes behind schedule, my date and I sped right past the liquor store (and the restaurant, the first time around) and into our window-side seats at the BYOB gem… dining at 5pm is so underrated. Cozy and well-adorned, the 50-seat space feels larger than the square footage would let you believe, yet intimate enough for eye contact with the hostess, waiter and the larger part of the dining room. Seriously.

As usual, we forgot to "B" our own "B", a non-issue once our waiter laid eyes on our empty wine glasses and sullen faces. He welcomed us warmly, reviewed the specials and poured glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon in one fell swoop. Who knew BYO’s had a private stock?

The menus (printed on paper, since they change it so often) had limited options – but in a good way. Being a vegetarian, I tore through the listings with reckless abandon (pork, no. chicken, no. lamb? aw.) and found myself excitedly reading about wild mushroom and pumpkin ravioli. The perfect cold weather dish, I decided, especially when paired with a bit of roasted butternut squash bisque. True to form, my carnivorous date took the meat route, selecting beef brisket, braised in red wine with sundried cherries in–yes, a puff pastry.

Having recently tried squash soup elsewhere, my taste buds were prepared for something along the lines of freshly pureed vegetable, lacking seasoning aside from the token salt and pepper. Not the case, my dear readers. This version was half-sweet, half-savory, seasoned with a blend of fall flavors that served simultaneously enhance and transform a commonly flawed dish. If you don’t believe me, ask my date; she literally stole my half-eaten portion and promptly finished it for me.

When the entree arrived, I was half-expecting to be sick of the whole "fall vegetable" theme, having ordered a pumpkin-based dish. Again, so not the case. The ravioli was creamy and delicately flavored, a perfect contrast for the pumpkin flan and toasted sesame that shined through in the sauce. Note: Anyone who has ever accompanied me to a restaurant will agree; I am absolutely incapable of saying "no" to having the leftovers boxed to go. In this case, however, I excitedly carried the box home and later ate the remains in a ten o’clock hunger daze.

Come dessert, we reluctantly ordered the creme brulee and the tapioca pudding (seperately, of course) from an understated chalkboard hanging near the kitchen entrance. Like most things, you know it will be good when you’re only given a few, usually hand-picked, options. As expected, the dishes were well-balanced, the chef decidedly skilled in setting a limit between sweet and overly so.

Bottom line: If you’re feeling antsy after work, looking for a good date spot or just downright hungry for a good meal - Avril is a solid choice. But please, don’t forget the wine.

Visit Avril 134 Bala Ave., Bala Cynwyd, 610.667.2626