March 19, 2008
By: Adam Erace
For some reason people get so freaked out about eating rabbit. I know, I know; they’re so cute and cuddly with their floppy ears and twitchy noses. But they’re also 'effing delicious--and not the slightest bit gamy when prepared right. In celebration of Easter, you get out there and you show Peter Cottontail where he stands on the food chain. Here’s where to do it.
Fritto Misto Ascolano, Le Virtu
This mixed fry at new East Passyunk trattoria Le Virtu hails from chef Luciana Spurio’s hometown of Ascoli Piceno in Le Marche. Rabbit cutlet, lamb chop, asparagus and green olives stuffed with pork, beef and chicken are either breaded or battered tempura-style and fried 'till their casings are crisp and brown. Pounded thin, the rabbit is tender, though I’d gladly eat an entire plate of just the cremini (fried cream). Bite into the golden shell and the solidified cream jets out, rich and thick like mascarpone and lightly sweet like cannoli filling.
Rabbit Casalinga, Osteria
The stylish crowd is on the pulse and the red concrete floors are very "now", but one bite of Jeff Michaud’s rustic rabbit casalina at Osteria will transport you to a tiny Piedmontese cucina. Casalinga means housewife in Italian, and this preparation is fittingly homespun: bone-on morsels of bunny braised 'till it falls apart and served over the most wonderfully textured polenta in a round ceramic casserole.
Rabbit Cacciatore, Paradiso
East Passyunker Paradiso goes the route of the hunter (cacciatore in Italian) with the classic sauce of peppers, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes for its rabbit. Served on the bone, this dish could convert the most ardent animal rights activist. The silky mascarpone polenta doesn’t hurt either.
Pappardelle alla Coniglio, Ava
Michael Campagna, chef/owner at BYOB Ava, starts with whole rabbits for his pappardelle alla coniglio. He breaks down and braises the bunnies for hours, then reserves the meat before crafting a dynamite ragu with tomatoes, cream and the flavor-packed braising liquid. There must be a pound of the hand-cut pappardelle per person, so don’t be shy about splitting (or going home with a bunny—err, doggy—bag).
Smoked Rabbit Nachos, Rae
These “nachos” are a worthy bar snack at Daniel Stern’s happy hour haunt for Cira Center worker bees. More like empanadas, these outside-in tortilla triangles are filled with tender morsels of jalapeno, cilantro, cheddar and bunny that’s cured, smoked and braised. More cheddar is melted atop, making it a supremely delicious (if unhealthy) after-work nosh and a fitting example of Stern’s lighthearted approach to cooking.