Atmosphere: The space itself is charming on its own, and made even more so in the context of the charmless block it's on. Located even further north than Osteria, this Puerto Rican/Mexican newcomer looks like it could be the set of the latest Penelope Cruz/Pedro Almodóvar film. Soaring ceilings, shiny and well-worn hardwood floors, calming ambient light--it's all there.


Crowd: It was quiet during a recent lunchtime visit, but the few tables that were occupied made for a nice mix of people. To my left were four middle-aged office-worker types, gossiping about company politics and the relative merits of grilled versus fried chicken. Beside them was a young couple flirting with each other over nachos. But Cobre's presence here seemed to elicit some sort of excitement in the neighborhood, and a few people wandered through to check the space out, which is always a good sign.

Service: Needs work. I hope it's just a matter of working out the kinks (all new restaurants go through a period like this) but there were some mistakes that definitely caused me a bit of agita. My appetizer and entrée, for example, were inexplicably brought out at the same time. And it took a bit too long to get my check. But the waitress was amiable, which goes a long way. It just makes me nervous that service was this uneven despite the fact that it wasn't all that crowded.


What To Get: The pastelillos (Puerto Rican empanadas), which actually arrived at the table in the singular. Be that as it may, it was still one tasty, hearty dish--a halfmoon of fried dough filled with tender, well-seasoned chicken (though beef and shrimp are also available). The arroz dulce, or sweet rice pudding with cinnamon, was nice as well. I especially liked the fact that the rice hadn't been overcooked, which prevented it from arriving at the table a mushy mess, as is too often the case.

What Not To Get: The mofongo con camarones, though the mofongo wasn't at fault; in fact, it was the highlight of the dish. That baseball-size sphere of plantains, garlic and pork skins (think rinds and you're in the ballpark) was surprisingly light and just as tasty as you'd expect from a dish made with those ingredients. But the accompanying shrimp were vaguely depressing--little crustacean dwarfs that didn't have a whole lot of flavor despite the tomato-y, green pepper-studded sauce they were swimming in.

Verdict: I'm rooting for Cobre despite the problems, but I won't run back there for a month or so. I think they need to get their act together in both the front and the back of the house. If they do (when they do, I hope) it could be yet another reason to head on up to North Philly for a good, interesting meal.

Cobre, 812 N. Broad St., 215.235.1881