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Call it the trickle-down effect: Innovative chefs who open new restaurants within territories not usually known for much else other than fare that's indigenous to the peoples living in that particular area.
Chinatown is a prime example of the trickle-down effect; for decades it was a place lined with, well, Chinese restaurants with an occasional Vietnamese Pho house thrown into the Asian mix. Today, you'll find a lot more cuisine here than its neighborhood name implies.
The same can be said about South Philly, especially within Bella Vista, that rich-in-heritage section roughly defined as South Street down to Washington Avenue and Sixth to 11th Streets. There was a time not too long ago where it was almost all-Italian restaurants; travel elsewhere to find a menu that didn't have the words vitello and pesce written on it.
Credit then David Ansill when he opened Pif here in 2001. This tiny French BYOB opened culinary gates that have swung wide for creative opportunities in this former red-gravy neighborhood. And now, as of this week, another much-talked-about newcomer is about to join the party.
James, the eponymous offering from noted chef/owner James (Jim) Burke and his wife, Kristina Burke, who's general manager, looks to give new life to the former Michael's Ristorante space along Eighth Street.
Where Michael's was dark and moody with grotto-like alcoves, James (the restaurant) takes a more modernized approach to its atmosphere.
Chocolate velvet drapes, stunning crystal chandeliers and splashy prints line the century-plus red-bricked walls. A fourteen-seat chef's table provides a private space for festive dining. And the lounge, once stodgy and Old World, is now contemporary with cushy love seats and intimate cocktail tables set by the crackling fireplace.
The focus of the chef and his restaurant is to utilize the freshest and finest ingredients available, tailored with the boutique wine list to produce a memorable menu of selections. Burke is big on seasonal items like wild seafood, top-quality meats and artisan cheeses, most coming from local Pennsylvania farmlands.
The menu for this winter season is a gourmand's gustatory playground. Starters include pan roasted squab breast, parsnips and spiced beurre noisette ($13) and a loamy wild mushroom "cappuccino" with chestnuts and pine ($8). Entrees are no less tempting and creative; Chatham cod with "chowda" in a potato rosti ($22) or maybe, the seared hanger steak with a smoked potato puree in a Beaujolais sauce for $24.
When James opens this week, its talent will shine through. Chef has trained under such award-winning luminaries as Master Chef Vince Alberici (Adam's Mark) as well as the nationally acclaimed Marc Vetri. Kristina's dining background includes various positions at a few of Philly's finest including Pasion!, Vetri, and Striped Bass. Together, they bring us James, the most anticipated South Philly restaurant since Pif trickled down into Bella Vista.
Mon. - Thurs., 5pm - 10pm; Fri. - Sat., 5pm - 11pm; James, 824 S. Eighth St., Philadelphia, 215.629.4980; www.jameson8th.com
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