Tequila, it seems, is in the running to become the new vodka. Equations like that are, of course, fraught with the potential for inaccuracy and overstatement, but it nonetheless rings true these days. After years of a fervent, almost coltish run of popularity, that least flavorful of spirits is finally being replaced, at least in some quarters, by infinitely more complex offerings. Indeed, no matter how perfect a mixer vodka is, sipping on a glass of bourbon or gin or tequila offers a lot more in terms of excitement.
And, it seems, Azul Cantina understands this as well as anyone in town these days. Their list of tequilas runs to several dozen options, and the number of potential cocktails that employ all those bottles is even greater. This combination—and, one would have to assume, the airy atmosphere and understated cool vibe—has led to Azul becoming one of the most popular destinations in the neighborhood since it opened about two months ago.
But, of course, a restaurant has to offer more than just interesting drinks in order to maintain its popularity after the summertime passes and the prospect of a cold, fruity tequila cocktail loses its luster.
Fortunately, Azul show promise. And while some dishes are still in the work-in-progress stage, it offers enough variety to hold the neighborhood’s interest in the meantime.
Unctuous classic guacamole, spruced up with a mango salsa and a smoky-hot habañero – coconut milk reduction, benefited from chef Jesse Vega’s respect for traditionalism and willingness to think outside the box. And while the pepper’s tingle toed a rather fiery line (as habañero should), it never once crossed over. In fact, that sweet-spicy guac was best when enjoyed not scooped up with a tortilla chip, but rather with a fork and cosseted in the oily, garlicky mofongo that accompanied it.
Mahi-mahi tacos, which seem to be swimming into restaurants all over town lately, were well-anchored with generous, meaty bricks of the grilled fish, its own heartiness offset by a glaze of Mezcal barbecue sauce and a surprisingly complex grilled pineapple salsa on top.
Adobo skirt steak, too, was a winner, the deep-flavored charring from the grill enhancing rather than obscuring the iron-y character of the meat, a slurp-worthy ancho – red wine sauce spreading out beneath it. Accompanying the meat were yucca fries that had been tossed in a garlic mojo, completing what Vega told me was his take on “Mexican steak frites.”
Unfortunately, the same level of success was not achieved by the pork enchiladas, whose well-seasoned, tender meat—braised in an achiote paste and then slowly cooked for 10 more hours in a banana leaf, rendering it astoundingly flavorful and succulent—was undermined by a sauce that relied too heavily on tomatoes and too little on the underrepresented anchos. Also, the dusting of Oaxaca and Chihuahua cheeses on top did little to complement those other flavors.
I also wasn’t wild about the chocolate tamale, a clever riff on the savory standard that involves filling a corn husk with masa, chocolate, dulce de leche, butter, cinnamon, sugar and vanilla. But neither, apparently, was Vega, who has since tweaked the recipe to make it sweeter and more cake-like in texture. He is, happily, keeping the chile de arbol ice cream that came with the tamale.
Rice pudding flautas, however, were better, and needed no such work. The thin yellow corn tortillas encasing it all were crisp and light, the rice filling had attained a texture similar to Japanese sticky rice (but the flavor was sweeter), and the coconut ice milk off to the side was velvet-smooth and refreshing.
All the pieces are in place at Azul, and they have already accomplished the hard work of getting bodies in the door. The space itself has to be one of the more summer-appropriate in the neighborhood with its vaguely Mexican design details and glowing blue-hued light, not to mention the fabulous people-watching at the sidewalk tables. And the service is far more accommodating and knowledgeable than at a number of other restaurants in the neighborhood.
What has to happen now that Azul is ready to move into the next phase of its life is a renewed focus on the food, which I’m told is forthcoming. Vega plans on adding some unexpected twists to the experience with creative, perhaps challenging specials like sweetbread tacos, “funky ceviches” (his phrase), and the like.
While you wait, however, there’s plenty to enjoy right now, and more than enough options to slake your thirst. Who, after all, doesn’t love something fresh, fruity and potent in their glass this time of year?
