March 6, 2008
By: Brian Freedman
bfreedman@aroundphilly.com
These days, it sometimes seems as if restaurants spend just as much time promoting their latest dish or hyping the latest culinary stud to man the six-burner as they do actually conceiving, preparing, and sending out tasty food. Nowhere has this been more apparent than in the gastropub category, which seems rather odd considering the fact that the experience at such establishments should, by its very nature, tend toward the understated.
But such is the make-up of a restaurant culture like ours, and even the most humble establishments can’t seem to avoid the temptation to toot their own proverbial horn once in a while, to make a bigger deal out of their menu than it perhaps deserves.
That’s what makes Misconduct Tavern so refreshing. It has raised itself from relatively obscure and forgettable to relatively obscure and noteworthy, all done quietly and with a distinct lack of drama. For that reason alone, it’s worth a second look.
It’s also worth a second look for the food coming out of its kitchen these days. The menu is packed primarily with pubby standards, sure, but also with higher-end takes on slightly more complicated—albeit still comforting—preparations. And the new nightly specials are in another universe entirely.
This, of course, is only appropriate, given the fact that new chef, David Kane, made his name at the late, beloved Pif as its executive chef before finding his way to the concrete wilds of the 1500 block of Locust three weeks ago. He told me he is still adjusting to working in a non-mini-kitchen BYOB, figuring out how best to order for the restaurant and finding ways to get his guests to try some of his more adventurous creations.
And even this soon after he set up shop at Misconduct, his brand of cooking is already catching on. Veal cheeks have made an appearance as a special, and he is house-curing salmon—not your traditional pub grub, to be sure. But even his more basic dishes are hitting the right notes.
Wings, which have the unfortunate tendency to perplex even the most accomplished chefs, were here notable for both their slightly smoky flavor and--in a break with Philadelphia wing orthodoxy--their distinct lack of extra sauce, which seems to speak of the confidence Chef Kane has in his garlic, chili, and brown sugar rub. In fact, they were also notable for the tenderness and flavor of the meat on those bones. The only problem here was the unexpected lack of accompanying celery—not a big deal, but still...you’ve gotta have celery for the bleu cheese.
A side of mozzarella- and fontina-topped macaroni and cheese (which I had as an appetizer) arrived in a metal vessel slightly larger than my first studio apartment in the Rittenhouse neighborhood. On a technical level, it was well-considered. The cheddar-enriched béchamel with which the macaroni had been tossed thankfully never devolved into the kind of gloopy, oily mess it too often does. It also tasted, put simply, damn good.
But while the conception underpinning everything I had was invariably smart, the execution, specifically in terms of cooking temperature, could use a bit of work. This, however, is perhaps to be expected in the kitchen of a new chef. Regime change takes time to hit its stride, especially in the little details.
The burger, for example, arrived a surprising pale-gray, despite the fact that it had been ordered medium-rare. This was unfortunate, because each of its constituent components had clearly been given careful thought: the mild, fruity Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese; the toasted, brioche-like challah in which the meat had been sandwiched; the well-seasoned frites and accompanying spicy chipotle mayonnaise that (consider yourself notified) you have to make a special request for—all these components raised the overcooked burger up several levels.
I’d also recommend ordering an appetizer portion of onion rings as a side dish for that burger. Thumb-thick slices of Spanish onion were cloaked in an almost tempura-like Yuengling Lager – and – buttermilk batter that, though it took well to the buttermilk peppercorn sauce on the side, needed no help beyond a crisp hoppy beer (the Troegs Nugget Nectar is always a good option, though Misconduct’s list offers a number of solid choices).
It’s with the specials, however, that Chef Kane gets to flex his muscles a bit, and where his pedigree shines through most clearly. A recent highlight included sliced pork chop (again, slightly overcooked) fanned out over a bed of aromatic three-hour-braised red cabbage and accompanied by salt-roasted fingerling potatoes, slices of caramelized Granny Smith apples cut the same approximate size and shape, and a drizzle of creamy, sinus-tingling stone-ground mustard sauce.
Dessert options on a recent Friday night were limited to a single, thoroughly addictive Thin Mint chocolate-chip cheese cake, a delicious slice whose milk-chocolate icing possessed all the irresistible texture of melting ice cream. (Which, I tend to think, is when ice cream is at its best—but that’s neither here nor there.)
So far, Misconduct has mostly remained a neighborhood spot—the after-work crowd seems to have taken a shine to it, as have the hood’s restaurant workers, which is always a good sign.
The downside is that this still vaguely nautical-themed gastropub will not remain under the radar forever. Best to get there before a Monk’s-style wait becomes the norm and it’s “discovered” by the food-groupies. For now, there’s a real sense of charm in its relative obscurity.
Once the warm weather arrives, outside seating will be available, and Chef Kane plans on making the nautical theme of the place more than just an issue of décor. Look for lobster rolls, oysters, fried clams and other dishes reminiscent of his childhood summers spent on Cape Cod. And any week now, you’ll be hearing more about his Sunday beer- and wine-pairing dinners.
These days, it seems, the sky—or, rather, the ocean—is the limit for Misconduct.
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