Osteria is a very good restaurant. This, of course, is generally not the kind of statement one begins a review with, but there it is. And I have the feeling that there are precious few people who would disagree with that assessment. By now it seems as if every Philadelphian with any delusions of foodie legitimacy has trekked on up to Marc Vetri and Jeff Benjamin's glamorously rustic space on North Broad Street for a nibble or three. And the word on the street is rather consistent. It's good, as in very good. And occasionally, it's brilliant.

Just go there with the understanding that you likely won't have the same paradigm-shifting experience you will at Vetri, the eponymous owner's flagship spot on Spruce Street.

The good news is that Osteria, like Vetri, does rustic better than almost anyone in town. And here, perhaps even more than at Vetri, the preparations are simple, straightforward and, for the most part, impeccably conceived and prepared.

The pastas were especially noteworthy. Robiola francoboli--melt-in-your-mouth, bite-size ravioli filled with a tangy, creamy northern Italian cheese familiar to anyone who's ever spent a Saturday stalking the guys behind the Di Bruno Brother's cheese counter--were exactly what so many ravioli, sacchetti, agnolotti and other stuffed pastas are not in this town: subtle and not overstuffed, overcooked or over- anything else. They were simply paired with thyme and bluefoot mushrooms, and because of the relatively few ingredients and the supremely high quality of the ones that were used, those francoboli were nothing short of exquisite.

The fusilli, too, worked in much the same way, though the flavor profile was completely different. Whereas the francoboli were all about darker flavors, the fusilli, with its bright hit of fresh mint and sheepy tang of Pecorino, was far more springlike in its orientation. Fava beans brought a certain heartiness and weight to the party, but the overall effect was one of lightness. (It also helped that it paired perfectly with the rosé the sommelier recommended.)

It's impossible, of course, to discuss Osteria without mentioning the pizza, which everyone who's been there feels the need to pontificate about. And while they are undoubtedly on the expensive side, they put every other pizza in town to shame. The one I tasted, a $17 octopus pie (the Polpo), was worth every penny. The crust was impossibly crisp and had taken on a subtle charred flavor from the oven. This found a splendid flavor analogy in the smoked mozzarella, but avoided being crushed under the weight of its own heartiness by the generous heat of red pepper flakes. As for the octopus, it was, as the waiter described, "spot on"--tender, toothsome and every bit as rustically wonderful as I'd expected.

But the entrées, though good, just didn't live up to what preceded them. Pork Milanese with lemon and arugula needed more of a citrus kick to liven it up. Stuffed baby lamb was oddly monochromatic despite the rosemary, flavors of the meat and polenta, which all grew confused on my tongue.

The wood-grilled halibut, however, was a standout, the spring onion crema's flavors existing on the exact opposite end of the spectrum as the bottarga (dried, pressed tuna roe from Sicily) shaved on top. As a result, the entire composition was magnificently balanced and blissfully complete. Just like the meal as a whole.

From the time we walked in we were treated like guests in a (particularly glamorous) friend's home. The sommelier was not only accommodating and fabulously knowledgeable about her list, but far more concerned that the wine would pair well with our food than selling us the most expensive bottle. And the waiter was friendly but not patronizing, enthusiastic but not off-putting and able to guide us when we needed it.

So while Osteria may lack that lightning-in-a-bottle magic that Vetri captures, it's still one of the most exciting restaurant openings of the year and I'd imagine it'll just keep on getting better--especially those meats. And as long as you don't over-order, you'll get your money's worth. Split a pizza with a friend, dig into a bowl of pasta, kill a bottle of the sommelier's recommended wine and roll out happy. Who could ask for more?

Osteria, 640 N. Broad St., 215.763.0920, www.osteriaphilly.com