Though pizzazz and tomato pie are admirable claims to fame, our pizza scene has been much maligned. The next time you’re browsing the Pennsylvania food blogs and boards, search for pizza and be amazed at the contentious debates over worthy pies and the incessant whining of transplanted New Yorkers mourning the lack of great slices in the Illadelph. The state of pizza is sad but true. Though there are some standouts, consistent greatness is hard to come by.

Fired in brick ovens from 1927, the traditional cheese pies at Marra's (right) are bubbly, brown and delicious, but only when eaten at Marra's. Something strange happens to a Marra's pizza between the time we pick it up and the time we get home. Same goes for Celebre Pizzeria: phenomenal thin-crust pizzazz (cherry peppers, fresh tomato, American cheese) on location; droopy and wet on the kitchen table. With locations in Old City and South Philly, Gianfranco Rustica has been reliable for delivery (the white pizza with pesto is outstanding). Cacia's focaccia-style squares (red, white, pizzazz, tomato pie, broccoli or spinach) baked in ancient metal pans never disappoint, though its Ritner Street location, in the shadow of the St. Monica’s clock tower, closes almost as early as New York Bakery across Broad. Get in line early on Sundays to beat the post-church blitz; New York Bakery's legendary tomato pies are gone by 1pm. The reason? Smooth gravy is sweet and slathered on thick, and the crust bordering this wood-fired square sensation is doughy in the center, crusty on the ends.

LaRosa has great Roman-style pizza topped with thin-shaved potatoes, but its plain is nothing special. Dock Street Brewery in West Philly is a craps shoot. Sometimes the thin-crust pies (topped with everything from applewood bacon and BBQ chicken) are crisp and solid, other times flaccid and floppy. We hear Tacconelli's is fabulous, but calling ahead to reserve dough like you would reserve a table at Vetri is a little ridiculous. Recommended is Tacc's Jersey location situated in Maple Shade, N.J., a jug-handle away from the Moorestown Mall. The crusts are thin, the toppings are fresh and generous and no reservations are needed.

Lately we’ve been sticking with SliCE, the pizzeria that uses capitalization like a seventh-grader on her MySpace. Located in the former Britt's on 10th and Federal, Slice turns out both traditional and gourmet thin-crust pies with quality ingredients like artichoke heats, prosciutto, Gorgonzola and Maglio sausage. The margherita is simple and fresh, and the San Marzano tomato sauce on the traditional pie is stunningly red with a great velvet texture. Slice doesn't skimp on the fresh mozzarella; there’s plenty of cheesy white buttons dotting the pie, and the showers of bright green basil sets the pizza off in anise-y fireworks. This pizzeria has been open a year and is still going strong. It could be, just maybe, Philly’s pizza savior.