May 12, 2008
By: Ken Alan
kalan@aroundphilly.com
Most weekdays I work at the concierge desk of a very large office building in West Conshohocken. You’d probably recognize it; the shimmering one that looms imposing over the Schuylkill River at the Route 76 “curve.”
When I began there in late 2003, the site was still mostly un-leased and the property owners were on the hunt to fill a gaping 50,000 square foot vacant space with something that would surely entice interested parties from near and far: They wanted a steakhouse.
Through those chilly winter months, our leasing agent was busy meeting with representatives from the likes of such notables as Ruth’s Chris and The Palm. Unfortunately for my masters, none took the bait.
“You can’t just drive up to the front door” was their rationale while looking at our six indoor garage levels and thus, our loss became Radnor’s gain when Fleming’s opened there two years later.
The locale makes sense. Situated on the ground floor of an equally-as-impressive office site, just off busy Route 30, a stone’s throw from interconnecting Route 476, and next door to Susanna Foo Gourmet Kitchen, the burgeoning Fleming’s brand had inserted its first store in the Delaware Valley while occupying a key piece of otherwise steak-less real estate. You’d have to travel to King of Prussia or east to Bala Cynwyd for anything close in carnivore-luring caliber.
Besides its prime situation, Fleming’s also has internal gravitas going for it. Patrick English, former GM of Smith & Wollensky, is a vested managing operator overseeing a team (“not just a staff”) of dedicated and mostly long-term steakhouse professionals such as exec chef Davis Langhorne, who’s been here since Fleming’s opened.
And there is sommelier Robert Amar with past endeavors managing the Inn at Saint Peters Village, and at Philly’s Sole Food within The Loews hotel.
Where wine is served with a big markup and too-heavy concentration toward chewy California cabernets (like at competitor Sullivan’s), Amar has an internationally progressive wine list to play with, along with 100-by-the-glass and trios of wine flights.
Every fine steakhouse has defining décor and Fleming’s is no exception: theirs is handsome with mahogany-hued woods and power-umber appointments, illuminated overhead disks, and many full wine racks on display. Several private dining rooms linger off to one side.
This is steakhouse fair in its most Prime form; the beef is certified U.S.D.A. Fleming’s also succeeds by having the mark of a true steakhouse, meaning, the restaurant serves great seafood and shellfish.
I have fortunately--yet gluttonously--eaten my way through much of the menu here, as English can attest to. Filet mignon, veal chop, prime ribeye, Australian lobster tails, crab cakes: they’re all quintessentially good. So, too are the appetizers, from the sweet chili calamari to the chilled seafood tower. The Cajun barbecue shrimp are worth sampling, though too sweet to compare with those served with their heads-on and good Worcestershire-based bbq sauce, like in New Orleans.
As is typical, desserts are gi-normous, tasty and sweet.
Steakhouse prices match the menu, and you know that going into the deal with chef Davis. I think English once told me (back when he was still with Smith & Wollensky) that in order for a steak place to break even, each seat must yield $60 per paying customer, so you get what the financials could be.
Ironically, the only aspect of opportunity I’ve ever encountered at this Fleming’s has to do with the one reason why it’s here and not at my building: parking. Patrons can certainly “just drive right up to the front door” for valet convenience. Or, they may park a two-minute walk behind the corporate center and hoof it--something I am never opposed to doing, especially after such a big meal.
It’s the lack of a sidewalk that can be a bit dicey, with a few freewheeling folks flying on through after their own dine-out there. I can’t suggest the building ownership looking into this and some street signage quickly enough.
Still, if I am lucky, I’m usually good for three to four Fleming’s trips a year, which for the wallet and waistline is just perfect.
In actuality though, I am grateful that the Fleming’s crew chose Radnor instead of West Conshohocken. Being able to walk down a hallway toward mammoth martinis and a signature wedge salad might be too much even for this ongoing eater to handle.
