April 14, 2008
By: Ken Alan
kalan@aroundphilly.com
There was once a moment in my life when I really wanted to be a restaurant inspector for the American Automobile Association. You know, the guy who goes into places anonymously with his never-ending list of measures: Should this establishment be rated one diamond or two, four diamonds or five? Ah, such power!
That time has long since passed and with it, my overall infatuation with subjugating restaurateurs to the rigors of AAA standards. I think it had something to do with actually being offered that job, and then finding out how many nights on the road I’d have to spend versus how little the job paid. Besides, there’s now a whole Internet full of blogs to do it for me; some insightful and others spiteful, filled with faux critics and armchair dining reviewers.
I now consider myself an equal-opportunity diner. It’s all good in my book (most of it at least) and I always respect the opinions of others. Occasionally though, someone throws down a gauntlet and calls my apple an orange. Oranges, you see, are a lot more acidic than a Granny Smith.
This type of challenge came recently when Philadelphia Magazine ran its list of Top 50 Restaurants. From the instant feedback I subsequently read and heard regarding their unflappable assessments to the state of the restaurant industry regionally, I knew that my friends from Philly Mag had really bitten off more than just good tasting pizza (Marc Vetri’s Osteria was listed No. 1).
I agreed with several of their assertions and rolled my eyes at others. Scanning that list, it made me realize why I rely so much on useful ratings systems like the Zagat Survey.
Anyway, as I perused Philly Mag’s own regaling of fifty top restaurants, I spotted Han Dynasty at No. 43. “I know that place!” was my first thought about the simple restaurant in a small Exton strip center. “They certainly do have very good Chinese food.”
But as the weeks went on, Han Dynasty’s rating began to stick in my craw: Is it really that good? Is my palate so uneducated as to not appreciate the fare there? Was Philly Mag just f-ing with us? So, I did some research.
My first visit was as exceptional as it was educational. I’ll preface by stating that I’m not a big Chinese food fan. In my book, mu shu chicken falls somewhere between gefilte fish and scrapple on the Taste-O-Meter. I can do them each once in awhile, but I hardly yearn for any of them.
We dined on a Friday evening, late, and the restaurant was still quite packed, mostly with Chinese patrons. This was, as “they” say, a very good first sign.
Egg roll appetizers were tasty. The crispy-fried wrapper enveloped a perfectly crunchy tangle of pale cabbage, though, no other vegetables seemed discernable. Oddly, though not unpleasantly, we picked up on the slightest hint of green curry powder, which was a flavorful addition.
Wonton soup was typical, and good, with enough salt so as not to be overwhelming.
Entrees included a delicious chicken and cashew nuts, an elevated version of what I’m used to finding at most other storefront Chinese restaurant like this one; the chicken was sliced thinner and felt tender on the teeth while the sauce had complexity in its variety of seasonings.
My next visit, with the family this time, I got experimental. My son enjoyed his beef with black pepper, a chef’s special, though I could tell by that reddening neck and jumpy demeanor he had been MSG’d something fierce. If only the menu had given us a heads-up - you don’t want to see my kid on a monosodium glutamate-bender.
I had no such tingling impact from my “Lion’s Head,” tender and delicious Chinese meatballs with bok choy on the side, a filling yet satisfying entrée. This, and an entree of pig’s intestine with hot pepper which tasted very sausage-y, were two wonderful surprises to be had at Han. Of course, I didn’t dare let on to my kids that I had just eaten entrails.
My wife stayed traditional with her General Tso’s chicken, one of the best renditions she’s had, and a bargain at $10.95.
I can’t help to think that affordability combined with this unexpected level of freshness and preparation is what makes this restaurant rank so high in the minds of Philly Mag editors. The prices are easy to swallow; entrées average less than $12, with plenty of leftovers for days.
If truth be told, Han Dynasty is very good, probably the best Chinese restaurant in Chester County. But is it really No. 43 in the entire region? No.
That same list puts Chinatown’s Sang Kee at No. 31 and the nationally recognized Susanna Foo at No. 36 (never mind that her newer Gourmet Kitchen in Radnor didn’t make the list).
A personal favorite of mine, Nectar in Bryn Mawr is just three clicks ahead of Han Dynasty at No. 40. Forgetting Nectar chef Patrick Feury’s amazing Asian-fusion cuisine for a moment, there’s also something to be said for atmosphere. Han Dynasty’s subdued décor can’t even compare to Nectar’s brilliantly stunning interior.
So Han Dynasty may not be in my own personal Top 50, yet I concede that it is very good, one of the best in the ‘burbs for quality Chinese food
But like apples and oranges, you can’t really compare Exton to Chinatown, can you?
