A beach bum? Hardly. That's the way the 29-year-old Mike Luongo describes himself. It's typically not the way executive chefs talk about themselves these days. But then we're talking about the unconventional Luongo, who's head of the kitchen at Vesuvio (736-38 S. 8th St., 215.922.8380). But then we're talking about the unconventional Luongo.
Completely self-taught, the guy really became a chef by accident. There's no formal, even informal, culinary schooling in his background. He wasn't ever on a career track. His Italian-American family doesn't have a history of professional or even home cooks, except for his grandmother who hosted traditional Sunday dinners for 30 people.
Hanging out years ago along the South Jersey shore, after high-school graduation, the Ridley Park native needed cash. Passionate about food and curious about cooking, the somewhat cocky teenager breezed into the kitchen of Basilico's Restaurant, in Sea Isle City, with the idea that he should be hired, without experience or knowledge, as a cook and get paid $10 an hour. Executive chef Scott Oliver was having none of it but was impressed with Luongo's self-worth and confidence. He made a counter offer, promising to take him under his wing with on-the-job training. Luongo still attributes his success to Oliver.
Later, upon returning to Philadelphia, he landed a job as a pastry chef under the tutelage of executive chef Ray Martirano at Bridget Foy's. When Martirano left there to open the restaurant at the Loews Hotel in Center City, he took Luongo along with him.
"I got to play a lot as a pastry chef and be creative, something that I was always apprehensive about losing if I ever attended culinary school," Luongo said.
Nowadays Luongo is busier than ever overseeing the kitchen and, in a way, the front of the house, too, at Vesuvio.
TC: What do like most about being an executive chef?
ML: The creativity. When I was a youth, I remember hanging out in my grandmother's kitchen. She was always busy, being creative, never going by the book. I got excited about the smells, the sounds, the energy, the activity. And I still get off on that every day in the restaurant's kitchen. I like handling the food, the colors, the textures, the tastes, even arranging it on the plates to be served to diners. Cooking is erotic to me.
TC: What's your signature dish?
ML: I like meat, and especially meat with a bone. I'm proud of my stuffed pork loin. I give my recipe a homemade feel. Though it's a lot of work, I filet it, layer it with several ingredients and generously season it. And give it a lot of tender loving care.
TC: Have you been handicapped for not having a culinary arts degree?
ML: I don't have a piece of paper but I have my experience. I've not been restricted by anything. The challenges of the chefs I've worked under has made me well-rounded. I'm not unafraid to take a recipe from a magazine or a cookbook, make it my own by creating something completely different. My culinary history demonstrates that there's nothing I can't do. These days, there's also nothing that you can't Google.
TC: Where do you go out to eat on your day off?
ML: Right now I'm really enjoying tapas. There are several good places serving it in Old City. Amada is my favorite. Jose Garces is doing amazing things. I'm really impressed with his simple descriptions and his awesome food. White anchovies. Diver scallops. You go there and just trust the chef. I can't wait to go back.
TC: What do you find most difficult about being a chef in a city overpopulated with Italian restaurants?
MK: Diners expect certain things from an Italian restaurant, the classic dishes, like chicken marsala, Osso Bucco or eggplant parmesan. It's almost impossible to do anything original. Sometimes I've even stolen ideas from other chefs who've mentored me, adding my own twist to the dish, hopefully making it my own. I tried everything from adding ingredients to the way that the food is placed on the plate. Of course, the food has to taste good but the presentation can definitely enhance the dining experience. I've been challenged at Vesuvio to develop vegetarian and vegan menus. That demands its own separate approach and way of thinking about food. I'm really growing to like it and actually eat some of these dishes myself.
